Well it was a beautiful weekend in Squamish. On Saturday I managed to climb "Rock On" 5.10a/b.
I camped out in Squamish overnight at an undisclosed ditch at 1:30am after probably one too many beer. The party camping next to us woke at about 5:00am in order to complete "Angels Crest" 5.10b (12 pitches). We were out for an equally long escapade, but only got up at 6:00am.
Packed camp and at *$ for a coffee by 6:30. Breakfast till 7. Hike in for about 30 minutes. Quick tutorial and gear swap. Then the old paper rock scissors game. ..to which... i lose....again!
Pitches are 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a/b, 5.7
Ray did pitch 1 and 3; 25 metres each.
I did pitch 2 and 4; 25 and 50 metres respectively
Cam did pitch 5. He was feeling a little gun-shy after his tumble last weekend. ;)
That was probably one of the hardest and scariest climbs I've done to date. The exposure intense...the crack...varied...
You could hear your voice echo on the SSW wall. Amazing. ;)
I did run-out the later bit of the long pitch as I was getting tired, scared and feared if I stopped in the fissure to place gear I would add more rope drag to an already really long route. I put in two pieces before the final crux and hauled my tired corpse onto the belay ledge.
AWESOME, but mentally very draining.
I just watched two movies recently...both oddly enough contain a common element of "break-ups" and "huffing gasoline"...peculiar i must admit.
The first is a nice piece staring Philip Seymour Hoffman and Kathy Bates entitled: Love Liza The movie was well done for the budget. Mr Hoffman was simply BRILLIANT.
The second is a Canadian production detailing the lives of several 20-somethings on the route between Quebec City and Montreal called Quebec-Montreal
In general I found this to be a very true to life movie and could relate to many of the characters even if some of it was a bit outrageous.
-=drj=-